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? How do I know?
Walk outside and look along the exterior walls of your home - usually on the side or back. It's a metal box about the size of a mini-fridge with a fan on top or side, sitting on a concrete pad or mounted on the wall. If you live in an apartment, check your balcony or a utility closet. No luck? Check your electric panel for a breaker labeled "AC," "Heat Pump," or "Condenser."
? How do I know?
Go stand next to the outdoor unit while the thermostat is calling for cooling or heat.
Fan spinning: Look at the top or side grille - you should see fan blades moving.
Compressor hum: Put your hand near the unit (don't touch). A running compressor makes a low steady hum or vibration - louder than just the fan.
Completely off: No movement, no sound, nothing. Could mean the unit tripped a breaker or safety switch.
Short-cycling: Starts up, runs for less than a minute, then shuts off - over and over.
Fan spinning: Look at the top or side grille - you should see fan blades moving.
Compressor hum: Put your hand near the unit (don't touch). A running compressor makes a low steady hum or vibration - louder than just the fan.
Completely off: No movement, no sound, nothing. Could mean the unit tripped a breaker or safety switch.
Short-cycling: Starts up, runs for less than a minute, then shuts off - over and over.
? What am I looking at?
Coils: The metal fins that wrap around the outside of the unit like a radiator. Dirty ones look grey/brown instead of silver, or have leaves/grass stuck in them.
Ice or frost: White or clear ice on the copper pipes coming out of the unit, or on the unit itself. In summer this is always a problem sign.
Copper lines: Two copper pipes going from the unit into your house. The larger one should be wrapped in black foam insulation. If that foam is missing or falling off, that's a problem.
Disconnect box: A small grey metal box on the wall near the unit with a handle or pull-out block. Should be closed. If it's open or the pull-out is missing, the unit has no power.
Fin damage: The thin metal fins on the coil can get bent by hail, lawn equipment, or impact. Bent fins block airflow and reduce efficiency.
Ice or frost: White or clear ice on the copper pipes coming out of the unit, or on the unit itself. In summer this is always a problem sign.
Copper lines: Two copper pipes going from the unit into your house. The larger one should be wrapped in black foam insulation. If that foam is missing or falling off, that's a problem.
Disconnect box: A small grey metal box on the wall near the unit with a handle or pull-out block. Should be closed. If it's open or the pull-out is missing, the unit has no power.
Fin damage: The thin metal fins on the coil can get bent by hail, lawn equipment, or impact. Bent fins block airflow and reduce efficiency.
? Where do I find this?
Look for a metal data plate or sticker on the side of the outdoor unit - usually on the back or inside the access panel. It will say the brand name (Carrier, Trane, Lennox, Goodman, Rheem, etc.) and have a model number that starts with letters and numbers like "24ACC636A003" or "4TTR3036L1000A."
Even just the brand name alone is helpful. The model number tells us the exact tonnage and series of the unit.
Even just the brand name alone is helpful. The model number tells us the exact tonnage and series of the unit.
? How do I know?
Gas furnace: You get a gas bill, and there's a metal box in a closet, basement, or garage with a flue pipe going up through the roof. Flames are blue when it fires.
Heat pump: Your outdoor unit runs in winter too - go outside on a cold day and listen for it. Your thermostat may say "heat pump" or "emergency heat."
Electric air handler: No gas bill for heat, outdoor unit only runs in summer, indoor unit is usually in a closet with just wires going in.
Boiler: You have cast-iron radiators, baseboard heaters, or warm floors. No vents blowing air.
Heat pump: Your outdoor unit runs in winter too - go outside on a cold day and listen for it. Your thermostat may say "heat pump" or "emergency heat."
Electric air handler: No gas bill for heat, outdoor unit only runs in summer, indoor unit is usually in a closet with just wires going in.
Boiler: You have cast-iron radiators, baseboard heaters, or warm floors. No vents blowing air.
? How do I know?
Vents (ducts): Look up at your ceiling or down at your floor - you'll see rectangular grilles that blow air when the system runs. Most common in US homes.
Wall-mounted units (mini-split): There's a white rectangular unit mounted high on the wall in each room with its own remote control. No vents in the ceiling.
Window / portable: The unit sits in a window or on the floor with a hose going out a window. Usually only cools one room.
Radiant / baseboard: Heat comes from the floor, from cast-iron radiators, or from electric baseboard heaters along the walls. No air blowing at all.
Wall-mounted units (mini-split): There's a white rectangular unit mounted high on the wall in each room with its own remote control. No vents in the ceiling.
Window / portable: The unit sits in a window or on the floor with a hose going out a window. Usually only cools one room.
Radiant / baseboard: Heat comes from the floor, from cast-iron radiators, or from electric baseboard heaters along the walls. No air blowing at all.
SYSTEM DETECTED
Not sure? Count the rooms - see the guide below.
? How do I know my home size?
Easiest: Look up your address on Zillow or your county property appraiser website - square footage is listed on every home.
From your records: Check your mortgage docs, home inspection report, or property tax bill.
Quick estimate by bedrooms: 1 bed ≈ under 800. 2 bed ≈ 900-1,200. 3 bed ≈ 1,200-1,800. 4 bed ≈ 1,800-2,500. 5+ bed ≈ over 2,500.
Or use the room guide below - just pick the description that sounds like your place.
From your records: Check your mortgage docs, home inspection report, or property tax bill.
Quick estimate by bedrooms: 1 bed ≈ under 800. 2 bed ≈ 900-1,200. 3 bed ≈ 1,200-1,800. 4 bed ≈ 1,800-2,500. 5+ bed ≈ over 2,500.
Or use the room guide below - just pick the description that sounds like your place.
Pick the description that sounds most like your place:
Studio / 1-bed apartment or tiny house
One main room, small kitchen, 1 bath. Fits in a hotel suite.
One main room, small kitchen, 1 bath. Fits in a hotel suite.
Small house or 2-bed apartment
2 bedrooms, 1-2 baths, small living room. Takes ~10 min to vacuum.
2 bedrooms, 1-2 baths, small living room. Takes ~10 min to vacuum.
Average 3-bedroom home
3 beds, 2 baths, living room, dining room. Most common size in the US.
3 beds, 2 baths, living room, dining room. Most common size in the US.
Larger 3-4 bedroom home
4 beds, 2-3 baths, maybe a bonus room or office. Feels spacious.
4 beds, 2-3 baths, maybe a bonus room or office. Feels spacious.
Large 4-5 bedroom home
4-5 beds, 3+ baths, formal dining, probably two stories.
4-5 beds, 3+ baths, formal dining, probably two stories.
Big house or small mansion
5+ beds, 4+ baths, big kitchen, lots of living space. You'd know.
5+ beds, 4+ baths, big kitchen, lots of living space. You'd know.
Or check your county property records, Zillow listing, or home inspection report - the exact number is usually there.
? How do I know?
Check the data plate - there's a metal or paper sticker on the side of your outdoor unit and indoor unit. Look for "MFG DATE," "Manufactured," or a serial number. Many serial numbers encode the year - e.g. if it starts with "1216" that usually means December 2016.
Ask your home inspector - if you bought the home recently, the inspection report lists equipment age.
Check your paperwork - warranty cards, receipts, or the previous owner's records.
Look it up online - search the brand name + serial number decoder (e.g. "Carrier serial number date lookup") and you'll find the exact manufacture date.
Ask your home inspector - if you bought the home recently, the inspection report lists equipment age.
Check your paperwork - warranty cards, receipts, or the previous owner's records.
Look it up online - search the brand name + serial number decoder (e.g. "Carrier serial number date lookup") and you'll find the exact manufacture date.
? How do I know?
Thermostat setting: The temperature you've asked the system to reach - usually the number you set it to.
Actual indoor temp: What the thermostat screen currently reads as the room temperature. On most thermostats there are two numbers - a big one (what it is now) and a smaller one (what you want it to be).
Example: "Set to 72, currently showing 81" - that 9-degree gap tells the AI a lot about how well the system is working.
No thermostat display? Use a cheap indoor thermometer or even your phone's weather app for an indoor reading. Even a rough guess helps.
Actual indoor temp: What the thermostat screen currently reads as the room temperature. On most thermostats there are two numbers - a big one (what it is now) and a smaller one (what you want it to be).
Example: "Set to 72, currently showing 81" - that 9-degree gap tells the AI a lot about how well the system is working.
No thermostat display? Use a cheap indoor thermometer or even your phone's weather app for an indoor reading. Even a rough guess helps.
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